Soooooooooooooo Happy New Year everyone! I just wanted to take some time to write a quick update since it’s been soooo long. While I purchased the domain a full year ago, I finally got going with the site and doing tours this past Fall.
Slowly but surely, thanks to you, I’m doing more and more tours. In the past month alone, I’ve met visitors from Australia, the UK, the US and even India! You Know Who and I also went to Thailand for our Christmas vacation!
But, sadly, I’m working tooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much these days. I can’t really post like I want to. I’m doing a lot of private classes (around 9 hours a week) to get my income back up after a summer without work. I have my normal after school job on weekdays for five hours, too.
Even more exciting? I took a part time job at Korea Travel Easy (KTE). Korea Travel Easy is a startup about one year old that offers shuttle bus tours, private transfers, concert tickets and more to visitors when they come to Korea. I’m working here around 10-15 hours per week as well!
My main job with KTE is creating product posts and content for now, BUT with time, I’m doing more traditional marketing roles with airline partnerships, newsletters, etc…..something I’ve dreamed of doing in Korea for years!
I THINK and HOPE and PRAY finally I can say goodbye to teaching kids from March! I will be forever grateful for the opportunities and experiences ESL teaching and has taught me, but it’s time to move UP and ON! FINALLYYYYYYYYYYY!
My goal is to do a mix of adult private classes, devote some proper time during the week to this website and business, and then keep increasing my hours at KTE until I can go full time comfortably.
So now all in all I’m working about 45 hours plus per week. Yes, they say determination and hard work is key, but I literally cannot keep the hours in a day.
So for those visitors who are coming here looking for fresh content, please be patient! I’m still happy to do night time tours, but I can’t do any cute Weekend Trip posts as often as I want.
Thank you all for your support and love! 2018 is going to be the year to take this business above and beyond…..but just not today :-)!
Agujim is a braised fish dish served all over Korea. Yeosu is famous for it. Technically, the fish is “braised angler,” but 90% of foreigners wouldn’t know what the hell kind of fish that is (and it’s kind of ugly). So I’ll describe it. Chunky, flaky white fish. No annoying as fuck tiny bones. Clean taste. Good texture.
I would say it’s braised in spicy red pepper paste, spices, soy sauce etc. But to quote Wikipedia:
This dish was our first stop on the list. We went to “You Know Who’s” favorite place when he was a kid. Many of his friends said it had become super popular over the years and changed, but You Know Who still loved it!
The restaurant name is 조롱박 which does not translate to English easily…..literally Jo Long (or Rong) Bak . Google Maps has an even worse English name for it, Jolongbag. It’s true meaning is a dried out gourd used to drink rice wine. Presumably, this gourd is used to hold the rice wine vinegar, seasoning, food, ANYTHING 🙂
We also ordered another dish, seodaehoe. This is another example of Korean not translating well to English haha. Seodae is a type of sole, and hoe (pronounced “hway”) means raw. Served like sashimi. The pieces are very firm, nice and chilled, similar to tuna sashimi, tossed in a spicy, sour, rice wine vinegar and red pepper sauce. Also mixed in are cabbage and some various onions. VERY tart and refreshing.
Total cost for our meal: 40,000W. Now, you don’t have to eat this much. In fact, you can order just either of the dishes. One is more than enough. But we were being glutttonous and HANGRY!
That afternoon, we did A LOT of sightseeing. So, our next meal was for dinner at the Yeosu Fish Market. Again, these terms are searched in Korean, so they might not display in English on your phone or computer.
At the fish market, you choose any stall. Honestly, they’re all the same in price and quality. The worker will chop up your fish at her stall and plate the sashimi. While she’s doing that, you will go to the “restaurants” next door. Choose any one that has a seat. There, you will pay a small table charge of around 2-4,000W per person.
The restaurant staff will serve you beer, soju (of course, for extra) and free side dishes. After you eat all of the raw fish, they use the fish bones (from your fish) and make a spicy stew out of it. So all in all you get a giant meal out of this fish.
We spent 30,000W for the big plate of raw flounder (off-white color) and 10,000W for the raw squid (bright white color). We also spent around 20,000W on alcohol and the table charge. So all in all 60 for the two of us.
After the fish market, we tried to go to Romantic Pocha Street, but they shut down oddly early. So we just visited a random hof near our motel. Nothing special to write about really. Some fried shrimp for 20,000W.
The next day, we woke up and headed back downtown. As You Know Who grew up in Yeosu, we had a nice chat with the taxi driver about the changes in Yeosu and everything. So, logically, we asked him to recommend a lunch place. And we ended up at Daeseong Sikdang.
They have all the usual suspects of key Yeosu menus, so we went for fried fish. At 10,000W per person, we received two kids of fish: 삼치 (Spanish Mackarel, pronounced samchee) and 갈치 (hairtail fish, pronounced galchi). One portion featured both fish pan fried and cost 10,000W per person.
After our lunch, we headed over to the rail bike by taxi, did that quickly, then taxied back to Odong Island. The good news about, really, every tourist place, is that, of course they have snacks and people hustling everywhere. Some of it is tourist crap, yes, but some of it is really good…. like this random street stall.
The lady was selling warm breads/pastry snacks from her tent. The crowd of old people meant the product was on rotation and was fresh.
After exploring Odong Island, it was time for the MAIN EVENT…..soy sauce crabs!!!!!!!!!!!!! Soy sauce crabs are a Yeosu specialty. A) Because they’re delicious and B) they’re CHEAP.
In Seoul, at a popular place, ONE person costs 45,000W. In Yeosu? The MOST popular place is 10,000W for all you can eat crabs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
“Gejang or gejeot is a variety of jeotgal, salted fermented seafood in Korean cuisine, which is made by marinating fresh raw crabs either in ganjang (soy sauce) or in a sauce based on chili pepper powder. The term consists of the two words; ge, meaning “a crab”, and jang which means “condiment” in Korean. Although gejang originally referred only to crabs marinated in soy sauce, it has begun to be called “ganjang gejang” these days to differentiate it from yangnyeom-gejang (양념게장). The latter is relatively a new dish that emerged since the restaurant business began to thrive in South Korea. “Yangnyeom” literally means “seasoning” or “seasoned” in Korean but refers to the spicy sauce made with chili pepper powder.”
Soy sauce crabs are the main event, but there are also a spicy version in gochujang, seasonings, etc. (which secretly I liked better at the first place):
Now, while they aren’t the sexiest or cleanest food to eat, they are DAMN tasty. like GAH. So good we ordered 2.5 kg of them to our house. This allowed us to eat at #2 Most Popular Place and we ordered from #1 Most Popular Place.
You Know Who’s Friend recommended we try a place called Cheongjeong Gejangchon. They are famous for their 갈치조림 (Braised Cutlassfish, pronounced Galchi Jolim). They also serve the crabs as part of your sides and you can get one refill of each.
We STUFFED our fat faces that day, whew! Then we headed over to the other MOST POPULAR CRAB PLACE, 황소식당 (Hwangso Sikdang).
We just ordered a jar of soy sauce crabs to our house in Seoul. Very cheap, 30,000W for 2.5 kg. We ate them for almost a whole month, but they became TOOOOOOOO salty so we had to throw a few crabs away. This month we’re gonna get the spicy seasoning (yangnyeom) ones.
After making our purchase, we hopped in a taxi back to Romantic Pocha Street for the last two hours before our train. We literally squeezed every second of time full of activities. It was PERFECT.
Romantic Pocha Street has TONS of different dishes, with some more famous and even people wait in line for them!
We picked one that was full and had like one table left. Random. Luck of the draw. At this point in the trip, we were tired of seafood hahaha. It was all delicious, but we wanted some MEAT!
So we ordered a rather interesting dish…..that still had seafood! Sea snails are common here (whelk if you will). They’re very meaty, not so much fishy. Also tossed in were some pig’s feet which have AMAZING seasoning.
We got a little drunk, then You Know Who raided a bubble tea cafe and bakery for the train ride home.
9 PM and we were at the train station and took the Midnight train back to Seoul!
This is where I’d usually write something cute and witty, but whew, so busy that this post took TOO LONG! Stayed tuned for the last installments…sooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnn……….
I’m quite busy these days with my new schedule, but I know I’m long overdue for this post! So today I wanted to share the places to see and go while you’re in Yeosu.
Still to come:
Part Three: The Food
Part Four: The Nightlife
Part Five: Accomodations/Transportation
My last post was an overview to Yeosu. Yeosu is a gorgeous coastal town at the faaaaaaaaaaar south of Korea, around 3-3.5 hours from Seoul. It’s famous for it’s beauty from the bay, spectacular bridges, the Aquarium, Rail Bike….and THE FOOD!
Yeosu does not have a subway, but there are some buses. However, for the average tourist, the buses are not that easy to use. Even more, the buses are not THAT frequent and still don’t take you door to door….so taxi is the preferred way to hop around.
Most attractions are clustered around two places: Yeosu Expo Station and by Lee Sung Shin Plaza/the boardwalk park by the water.
This Google Map has pins for all the main places. **My computer is set to Korean, so I have to post things with Korean links. It SHOULD translate to English for you. If not, please do let me know!**
After I finished work, I headed down to Yi Sun Shin Plaza. Yi Sun Shin is very famous in Korean history for using the “turtle ship” to defeat the Japanese. With only 13 ships, he defated the Japanese fleet of 300.
In the downtown, they created a giant statue with roundabout and a big plaza for public events. Towards the waterfront, there is a replica ship you can go inside to see how the ship was setup, how it worked, their uniforms and duties, etc.
After we walked around Yi Sun Shin Plaza, we headed just around the corner to lunch at Min Su’s favorite childhood place. Fun fact: Many if not all restaurants in Yeosu were required to have some kind of English menu thanks to the Expo a few years ago. While we didn’t check (we speak Korean, of course), this is good news for most visitors.
After lunch, we took a quick 3,000W taxi over to the Expo Area and visited the Aquarium. Yeosu was home to the World EXPO in 2012 which was a big deal at the time, but now the whole Expo site is eerily empty and unused….except for this massive aquarium. The aquarium is of average size and has your standard array of animals. Worth a quick look.
After the aquarium, we walked about 10 minutes down to the GIANT elevator tower to access the cable car. As it was around 5 PM, there was quite a long line to access the elevator. Yes, you could take the stairs, but as you can see, there are a lot of them. We waited about 30 minutes for the elevator.
The cable car area was VERRRRRRRRRRRRRY busy with people. In fact, we waited around 30-45 minutes to board. Before you view anything, take pictures, go to the ticket window or machine FIRST. Get your tickets. They issue you a number and your number is called in groups of tickets. Then it is your time to board.
The cable car dropped us off in Dolsan Park, which was a short walk to where we were staying. We stayed in this area since it was cheap. A motel in the tourist area was priced at 100,000W or so, but this hotel (a short 4,000W taxi ride away) was 70,000W. There are other hotels in Yeoseo-dong that cost around 60,000W (but it’s a further taxi).
After a quick rest and phone recharge, we called a taxi for pickup to take us to the Fish Market. This area was very quiet, so you can’t just easily flag a taxi on the street. Downtown Yeosu, no problem though. Yeosu has two fish markets, one big that is more for trade…..and then the smaller one across the street.
The big fish market was closed by 8 PM on a Saturday, so one of the ladies told us to go across the street. This fish market was definitely busier, but did close around 11 PM.
Yeosu Fish Market Entrance at Night
Yeosu Fish Market By Day
The fish market has many stalls, but honestly all have the same kinds of fish and prices are clearly listed and all cost the same.
You buy the fish from the staff and they sashimi it right there on the spot. Then, to the side of the market are a row of restaurants. Choose whichever one you like as they’re really all the exact same. You pay a small fee, like 3,000 or 4,000W per person to sit. The restaurant will give you side dishes for free and take your fish bones and prepare a spicy fish soup with it. First you eat all your sashimi, and then when you’re done, they will bring out the soup.
After our dinner, we took a walk to see Min Su’s old elementary school and where he played as a kid by the water. It’s actually a VERY beautiful spot at the base of the Dolsan Bridge.
From there, we hopped in a taxi (3-4,000W) to Romantic Pocha Street which was closing up early. We visited again Sunday night and it was BUSY! Many places didn’t have a seat. Pocha is a term for street tent where you can eat and drink. It’s definitely an old Korea vibe. These pictures are from our visit on Sunday night:
On Sunday, we woke up late and headed for lunch at a restaurant recommended by our taxi driver. More on food later. Then we took a 6,000W taxi to the Rail Bike. We made a reservation online to avoid the wait. The rail bike is very simple. An old train track has been converted to allow bikes that run on the track. The reservation is an hour, but with a short wait to get on the bike, bike to the end of the path and turn around is just 35-40 minutes.
After the Rail Bike, we hopped a 4,000W taxi back to Odongdo (Odong Island). It is an island that is next to the Expo Site and the Aquarium, but we saved it for the second afternoon so we’d have enough time. It offers gorgeous views of the Bay, water, nature, everything. You just walk across a short bridge. Takes around an hour or so to walk the whole perimeter of the island.
After our walking tour of Odongdo, we headed out for the infamous soy sauce crabs. We closed out our night at Romantic Pocha as previously mentioned……then on the KTX back to Seoul!
You may have seen on Instagram or Facebook that I took a little trip to the coast last weekend. Welllllllll, it was AMAZING. This trip came about as the perfect combination of schedule and timing. I have a lot to say, so I’m going to break this into several parts. Today is just an overview (other posts coming soon).
Part Two: The Sights and Tourist Attractions
Part Three: The Food
Part Four: The Nightlife (Coming Eventually :-))
Part Five: Accomodations/Transportation (Coming Eventually :-))
This past weekend, I visited Yeosu . Yeosu is a very small city of just 300,000 at the faaaaaaaar southern coast of Korea, just under 3 hours from Seoul by KTX train. The cost is around 47$ one way. There are buses available. They take 4.5 hours and cost 30-35$.
Yeosu is a very spread out city, but most of the action happens around Yeosu Expo Station and Lee Sun Shin Plaza. You can easily walk around here. While there are public bikes available to rent for 1,000W per hour, you need a Korean phone number and knowledge of Korean to use the machines.
Yeosu is a very quiet city, but gorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgeous! It is perhaps my favorite ocean side city in Korea, even better than Busan. Since it’s small, it’s very quiet and there’s not much party, but there is VERY beautiful scenery.
A friend offered me a part time job working an English festival on Saturday morning. My friend, his other co-workers, and I all headed down to Yeosu on Friday night. We took the KTX from Yongsan Station and stayed at the Elena Hotel. The Elena Hotel is not right in the downtown tourist area, but a short 5,000W taxi ride from Yeosu Expo Station. It is next to the main nightlife area, Yeoseo-dong. The nightlife is literally right behind the hotel. Lots of fried chicken and meat restaurants here. The bigger restaurants all have English included on the menu.
On Saturday, I woke up early to work the English Festival at the Yeosu Community Center. The bf came down from Seoul that morning while I was working. He arrived as we finished by 1 PM and off we went on our first mission: FOOD.
Yeosu is famous for seafood, seafood, SEAFOOD! There are many types of seafood available, and more on that later. You know I don’t spill the tea that easily.
My boyfriend actually was born and grew up in Yeosu. He moved to the nearby city of Gwangju when he was 16, so this was a nice trip back for him. First, we headed to one of his childhood favorites…..
Bongeunsa Temple is a famous temple in Gangnam since it’s traditional, yet smack in the middle of the city. Skyscrapers and traffic surround it, yet it maintains a quiet, peaceful atmosphere and is the real deal as any other temple. It’s also right next door to COEX Mall.
I’ve lived in Gangnam for almost two and a half years. I’ve passed this temple about 100 times, but FINALLY went last weekend!
The City of Seoul offers a public bike sharing service called Seoul Bike. It’s available for both residents and tourists! The cost is dirt cheap, at 1,000W for an hour. You can return these bikes at any other docking station. If the other station is full, you can even hook it up to another bike that’s already there and return it that way. Follow the above link for detailed instructions, how to register, and to download the app.
It’s a very convenient way to get around, but the app does take some effort as the process can be confusing or difficult for visitors. Even for me, I had to try it a few times before I got the hang of it!
Since I can speak Korean, I used the best map app for bikes. ***A quick word about Map services.** Google Maps does not work well in Korea. The government and Google don’t play nice. It has very basic functionality for public transit, but does not offer walking or biking directions. I would recommend Kakao Map. It offers English support. You can also copy and paste Korean addresses and names and get the best directions that way if you’re comfortable.
Kakao Map is great since it shows which roads have bike lanes, how long it will take, even the expected and highest inclines of the journey. A PSA: even if it says there is a bike lane, 99.99% of people will walk in the bike lane and all over the sidewalk, so prepare to ring that bell and go around and zig zag.
Biking across the Han River is absolutely one of the best things to do in Seoul. After six years in Korea, every time I cross the river, I can’t help but stare and stare and stare and stare……………………………..
The Han River bisects Seoul. Along the banks of the river, essentially is one giant network of parks, bike lanes, exercise areas, walking paths, swimming pools (opening dates vary yearly), picnic spots, rock climbing walls, festival areas, night markets…….
So we made it to the Bongeunsa area and returned our bikes. Below are some shots of the area and the temple. It is a nice, quick visit for an hour or so. I’m also not religious and have seen maaaaaaaaaany temples in my time around Asia.
At sunset, there was the bell/drum ceremony with foreigners participating. You can even do a Temple Stay!
After our bike ride, we walked the short ten minutes to my house and got ready for a night out………
Up next, I’ll FINALLY spill some tea on my neighborhood bars and restaurants….
Since the blog is fresh, I wanted to take the time to share a little bit more about myself, my social life, etc. As I mentioned, I live and work in Gangnam near Seonjeongneung Station. I work as an after school English teacher at a nearby school in the afternoons. It’s a nice 20 minute walk to work.
Gangnam literally means “South of the River,” the River being the Han River that divides Seoul. The northern part of the river is older Seoul, where everything began. Gangnam development only really began in the 1970s (ish) as it was allllllllllllllllllll farm land then. It was developed specifically to be the new business area. Gangnam is technically Gangnam-gu (gu = District), Seocho-gu, and even Songpa-gu, so what Seoulites consider Gangnam is quite large.
Gangnam itself is about 1-1.5 hrs from Incheon Airport depending on traffic/where you’re coming from. To Myeongdong it’s about 40 minutes by bus. To Hongdae, 45 minutes by subway. Gangnam is in the Southeastern area of Seoul.
The best part? You can literally get ANYWHERE in Korea from Gangnam. Well, except Jeju. Express Bus Terminal is in Gangnam, offering buses to other cities like Busan, Gyeongju, and Daegu. The SRT high speed train also opened recently at Suseo Station, allowing us to get to the same cities by high speed train. It’s closer than KTX for us and even slightly cheaper. Gimpo Airport is only 30 minutes by Line 9 Express, but bring your patience, because Line 9 is craaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaazy crowded.
Allllllllll the major businesses are here, so it’s teeming with office workers during the day. It’s also known as the place for THE best education in Korea, so there are many families packed into high-rise apartment complexes and small apartments surrounding the schools.
Gangnam is viewed as the “fancy, super expensive” neighborhood, which it can be, but that is not my Gangnam! I happen to think of my neighborhood as VERY normal, but better in some ways. It’s extremely clean with Nazi-like trash men, street sweepers, trash trucks, all that stuff. Not only do the trash men sort the household trash for collection, they even go as far to sweep the streets of leaves and general debris every morning!
Here are a few shots of my hood. The main streets around it are covered in offices, businesses, traffic. What you’d expect as it’s the newer part of Seoul.
When you move off the main street, you find tons of residences all around you. The giant apartment towers/family complexes are self serving with everything in one central location. Most single people live in small buildings with several one room apartments. The streets are narrow and dense with buildings and car traffic.
Somehow, despite all of this, my neighborhood is PIN DROP quiet. Like I still don’t know how it manages to be this quiet. People are all around, but you wouldn’t know it!
There are several meat restaurants, izakayas and Korean style bars in my neighborhood. I stay around my house when I want a quiet night out. Fried chicken, meat, seafood, it can all be had within a short walk.
And below are just two of my favorite Japanese places nearby. Yes, I know, it’s Korea, but Japanese bars and food are verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry popular. The first place is a nearby izakaya that nails the decor!
Below is a Japanese “fish cake” bar. This place is always so busy I couldn’t get a seat for almost two years….only ten seats in total! By cake, I mean they form fish and flour together. In Japan, they call it kamaboko. In Korea, we call it Odeng or Uh-Mook.
BUT for true nightlife, I head just one (express) subway stop away to Sinnonhyeon Station. THIS is real Gangnam nightlife. And not douchey club Gangnam. Normal Koreans, meeting friends, eating, drinking, singing the night away.
My next post will be devoted to my home away from home (and where I do most meetups and tours), Sinnonhyeon Station!
Chuncheon is a popular destination for both tourists and Koreans alike. Tourists go for places like Nami Island, Petite France and the Chuncheon Rail Bike. Chuncheon is also the home of dak galbi, a unique Korean dish made of spicy chicken rib meat, sweet potatoes, onion, and cabbage sauteed in a pan. It’s absolutely worth a try since this is typically not available at many places outside of Korea.
Recently, the boyfriend and I took a day trip to Chuncheon to see one of his favorite singers, Sohyang. Seriously, though. Her voice. Chills. And that good Englishee, too.
To get to Chuncheon, there are many ways. For our day trip, we took the ITX train to Chuncheon (1-1.5 hrs or so from Seoul) near our home from Wangsimni Station. Most visitors can take the train from Yongsan Station. There is also a subway, but it takes around two hours and a seat is not guaranteed. We went all the way to Chuncheon Station for our short day trip, but most visitors get off at Gapyeong Station for Nami Island. You can reserve ITX tickets here.
**For visitors who wish to do a day trip with ALL of the activities (Nami, Petite France, etc.) together, the Gapyeong City Tour Bus is recommended as the attractions are spread far apart and would require expensive taxis. You cannot rely on public transit within Chuncheon for far distances.**
After our lunch, we took a short 4,000W taxi ride to Namchuncheon Station area for bike rentals. There are MANY bike rental shops in Chuncheon. We tried many cheap Korean services, but they were sold out for the day. The rentals in the park near the lake tend to be expensive (like 5,000W for one hour). Instead, we just asked the tourist desk at the station where to go. They directed us to a shop just down the street from the station named Alton. MAP BELOW.
We paid 10,000W for the whole day for proper mountain bikes. Not shitty rentals. Real mountain bikes for real riding. We even had the bikes until they closed at 9 PM, so literally all day. While the cost was higher, the time value and bike quality was worth it.
The concert was held at Uiam Park (MAP BELOW), a ten minute bike ride from Namchuncheon Station. The park has very clear, detailed bike paths with English maps and signage. At the park, there are maaaaaaaany paths to take and go. The lake is huge and if you really want to bike, you can really go all day all the way around the lake.
After our concert in the evening, we took an ITX train back to Wangsimni Station (again since it is near hour home). All ITX trains start and end at Yongsan Station. We had dinner in our neighborhood at a delicious lamb skewer restaurant…… more on that later!